Garden Planning Part 4: What Is Companion Planting?

This is part four of my garden planning guide. For part one all about deciding what to plant, click here. For part two, all about planning your garden layout, click here. For part three, how to start seeds, click here

Companion planting is an age-old practice based on the principle of mutualism, where plants interact positively with each other, promoting growth, health, and pest control. Companion planting is a holistic approach to gardening that recognizes the interconnectedness of plants and their environment. By strategically pairing plants, you can create healthier, more resilient ecosystems that require less intervention and chemical inputs. It's a sustainable and environmentally friendly way to cultivate food and ornamental gardens, rooted in the principles of cooperation and harmony within nature. The goal is to enhance the overall health and productivity of the garden by taking advantage of the interactions between certain plant species.

How companion planting can impact your garden

Companion Planting for Pest Control

Some plants release natural compounds that repel or deter pests, and planting them alongside susceptible crops can help protect them. Marigolds are renowned for their ability to repel a wide range of pests due to the strong scent emitted by their foliage and flowers. This scent acts as a natural deterrent for many common garden pests, including nematodes, aphids, whiteflies, and even certain types of beetles.

Planting marigolds alongside susceptible crops can create a protective barrier, reducing the likelihood of pest infestations without the need for chemical pesticides. Planting basil alongside tomatoes not only improves the flavor of the tomatoes but also deters tomato hornworms and whiteflies. Similarly, planting onions or chives near carrots can help repel carrot flies, while carrots attract beneficial insects like parasitic wasps and hoverflies, which prey on aphids and other pests. Calendula and yarrow attract predatory insects like ladybugs and parasitic wasps, which feed on harmful insects.

Companion Planting for Soil Health

Companion planting plays a significant role in improving and maintaining soil quality. Some plants possess deep and penetrating root systems that can effectively break up compacted soil, allowing for better air and water penetration. Plants like daikon radishes, with their long taproots, are excellent at aerating the soil. These deep-rooted plants help loosen compacted soil layers, creating channels for air, water, and nutrients to reach deeper soil layers, which is beneficial for the overall health and growth of neighboring plants.

Leguminous plants, such as beans, peas, clover, and alfalfa, have a unique ability to form symbiotic relationships with nitrogen-fixing bacteria in their root nodules. These bacteria take atmospheric nitrogen and convert it into a form (ammonia) that plants can utilize for growth. This process, known as nitrogen fixation, helps enrich the soil with this essential nutrient, benefiting not only the legumes themselves but also neighboring plants. By interplanting nitrogen-fixing legumes with other crops, you can reduce the need for synthetic fertilizers and promote healthier soil fertility.

Certain plants have the remarkable ability to absorb and accumulate toxins, heavy metals, and pollutants from the soil through their roots—a process known as phytoremediation. Sunflowers, for example, are well-known for their ability to absorb contaminants such as lead, arsenic, and radioactive isotopes from the soil, effectively detoxifying it. Once absorbed, these contaminants are stored in the plant's tissues or concentrated in specific structures, making it easier to remediate the soil by removing the contaminated plant material. By incorporating phytoremediative plants into companion planting schemes, you can help rehabilitate polluted or contaminated soil, making it safer and healthier for other plants to grow.

In addition to sunflowers, several other plants are considered "dynamic accumulators" because they accumulate specific nutrients or minerals in their tissues, which can then be recycled back into the soil when the plant decomposes. For instance, comfrey is known for its deep roots and high concentrations of nutrients like potassium, calcium, and phosphorus. When comfrey leaves decompose, they release these nutrients back into the soil, enriching it for neighboring plants. Incorporating dynamic accumulators into companion planting designs can help improve soil fertility and structure over time, creating a more resilient and productive garden ecosystem.

Companion Planting to Maximize Growing Space

One of the primary ways companion planting maximizes space is by utilizing vertical space efficiently. Tall plants, such as corn, sunflowers, or pole beans, can serve as natural trellises or support structures for vining plants like cucumbers, squash, or tomatoes. By allowing these vining plants to climb upward, you can take advantage of vertical space that might otherwise remain unused, effectively doubling or even tripling the yield from a given area of land.

Another approach to space optimization involves creating layered planting arrangements akin to natural ecosystems. Tall plants with a dense canopy, such as corn or sunflowers, can provide shade and shelter for lower-growing plants like lettuce, spinach, or herbs. This canopy-and-understory configuration not only makes efficient use of space but also helps conserve soil moisture by reducing evaporation and minimizing weed growth. Additionally, the cooler microclimate created by the shade of taller plants can be beneficial for cool-season crops in warmer climates or during hot summer months.

Companion Planting as a Succession Strategy

Companion planting also enables you to implement succession planting strategies, where fast-maturing or short-season crops are interplanted with longer-maturing or perennial species. For example, lettuce or radishes can be planted between rows of slower-growing crops like tomatoes or peppers. By the time the larger plants reach maturity and require more space, the shorter crops will have been harvested, allowing for continuous production and efficient use of space throughout the growing season.

Pairing plants with compatible growth habits and complementary resource needs allows for denser planting arrangements without competition for resources. For instance, planting shallow-rooted crops like lettuce or herbs alongside deep-rooted crops like garlic or onions enables efficient use of soil nutrients and moisture without overcrowding or stunting growth. Similarly, interplanting nitrogen-fixing legumes like beans or peas with heavy feeders like corn or squash can provide natural fertilization and improve overall soil fertility while maximizing space utilization.

What is the Three Sisters Planting Method?

The "Three Sisters" technique, deeply rooted in Native American agricultural traditions, exemplifies the concept of companion planting based on complementary nutrient needs and symbiotic relationships among plant species. Corn serves as the backbone of the Three Sisters planting method, providing a tall, sturdy structure for the climbing beans to latch onto. As corn grows, it creates a natural trellis for the beans, allowing them to climb upward and access sunlight without the need for additional support structures. In return, the beans, with their twining vines, help stabilize the corn stalks against strong winds and storms.

Beans, such as pole beans or runner beans, are nitrogen-fixing legumes that have a symbiotic relationship with certain soil bacteria. These bacteria, known as rhizobia, form nodules on the beans' roots and convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that plants can use for growth. By interplanting beans with corn, the beans enrich the soil with nitrogen, a vital nutrient that corn requires for healthy growth and development. In essence, the beans act as natural fertilizers, reducing the need for synthetic nitrogen inputs and promoting soil fertility.

Squash plays a crucial role in the Three Sisters planting system by serving as living mulch. As the squash plants spread their large, dense leaves across the ground, they create a natural barrier that suppresses weed growth, shades the soil, and conserves moisture. This living mulch helps maintain soil moisture levels, reduces water evaporation, and minimizes weed competition, thus improving overall soil health and reducing the need for manual weed control.

The Three Sisters planting method offers synergistic benefits beyond nutrient sharing and weed suppression. The combination of corn, beans, and squash creates a balanced and self-sustaining ecosystem that mimics the diversity and resilience of natural ecosystems. For example, the dense foliage of the squash plants helps to deter pests and reduce pest pressure on the corn and beans, while the deep root systems of all three plants contribute to soil aeration and nutrient cycling. Beyond its practical benefits, the Three Sisters planting technique holds cultural and spiritual significance for many Native American communities. It reflects a deep understanding of the interconnectedness of all living beings and the importance of harmonious relationships with the land. The practice has been passed down through generations as a sacred tradition, embodying principles of reciprocity, sustainability, and reverence for the natural world.

Companion Planting to Increase Yields

Pairing plants that require cross-pollination can increase yields. Bees and other pollinators are attracted to a variety of flowering plants, so including a diverse array of flowers in your garden can ensure good pollination for crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers. Many plants rely on cross-pollination for successful fruit production. Cross-pollination occurs when pollen from the male reproductive organs (stamens) of one plant is transferred to the female reproductive organs (pistils) of another plant of the same species. This process introduces genetic diversity and promotes robust fruit set and development.

Incorporating a variety of flowering plants into the garden landscape serves as a natural strategy for attracting and supporting pollinators throughout the growing season. Plants such as lavender, borage, bee balm, sunflowers, and cosmos are known for their prolific blooms and attractiveness to bees and other pollinators. By interspersing these flowers among vegetable crops, you can create an inviting environment that encourages pollinator activity and enhances pollination efficiency.

Pairing crops that require cross-pollination with compatible flowering plants ensures that there are sufficient pollinators present when the crops are in bloom. For example, tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers all benefit from bee pollination. By planting these crops alongside companion plants that bloom concurrently and attract pollinators, you can increase the likelihood of successful pollination and maximize fruit set and yield.

Plants That Don’t Grow Well Together

Not all plant combinations result in positive interactions, and some plants may be incompatible due to competition for resources or allelopathic effects (where one plant releases chemicals that inhibit the growth of others).

Understanding the potential for both positive and negative interactions between plants is crucial when companion planting. While many plant combinations offer synergistic benefits, it's essential to recognize that not all pairings result in positive outcomes. Plants with high nutrient demands can compete with neighboring plants for soil nutrients. This competition can result in nutrient deficiencies for one or both plant species, hindering their growth and productivity.

Certain plants produce allelochemicals—compounds that inhibit the germination, growth, or development of other plants. These chemicals can be released into the soil through root exudates or leaf litter, creating an inhospitable environment for neighboring plants. For example, black walnut trees release juglone, a toxic compound that can inhibit the growth of many plants, including tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes. Planting susceptible crops near black walnut trees can lead to stunted growth, yellowing of leaves, and overall poor performance.

Some plants have aggressive growth habits or spread rapidly through rhizomes, runners, or seeds. When planted alongside less vigorous species, these invasive plants can overrun the garden, outcompeting and displacing other plants. Mint and bamboo are notorious for their invasive tendencies and should be grown in contained areas or avoided altogether in mixed plantings where they may dominate and crowd out other plants.

Certain plant combinations may attract common pests or serve as breeding grounds for disease vectors, increasing the risk of pest infestations and disease outbreaks for nearby plants. Planting susceptible crops in close proximity to each other can create ideal conditions for pests and diseases to spread rapidly. For instance, planting tomatoes next to potatoes can increase the likelihood of both crops being affected by potato blight.

To mitigate the risks of negative interactions between plants, it's essential to consider factors such as plant compatibility, growth habits, nutrient requirements, and susceptibility to pests and diseases when planning companion planting arrangements. Conducting research, observing plant behavior, and experimenting with different combinations can help you identify harmonious pairings and avoid potential conflicts in the garden. Successful companion planting often involves a combination of experimentation, observation, and adapting practices to the specific conditions of the garden.

Preparing Your Garden For Winter

By late October, the summer garden is hanging on by a thread, tattered and browning at the edges. Every day, I step outside and ask myself if this is the day to put it to rest. Admittedly, I probably wait longer than I should because I’m in denial about what’s coming. While some gardeners may be grateful for the period of rest winter offers, I’m just looking for more ways to keep growing even in the cold. I like living somewhere that experiences all four seasons, I just wish winter was just a little bit shorter! But eventually reality catches up with me, and I have to accept that it is time to take the necessary steps to prepare the garden for the winter months.

In my zone, 6b, we experience a long cold winter. We have a good four to five months of temperatures between zero and twenty degrees Fahrenheit. The ground freezes solid, everything dies back, winds pick up from the field and if I don’t take steps to protect it, the elements can do a number on the structures and systems I have in place for my summer garden. But there’s more to winter garden prep than just protecting what is there so it can lie in wait until next season. Now is also the best time to start preparing for any new additions you want to add to your garden for next year. So let’s dive into exactly what I’m doing to prepare my garden for winter.

Clear and compost dead plants

The very first thing I do to prepare the garden for winter is to try and give myself a clean slate. This not only tidies up the space but also helps prevent diseases from overwintering in dead plant material. For plants that remain disease free all season, you can use the “chop and drop” method to compost in place. Simply cut the plant down at the base, breaking apart any larger branches or sections so they can decompose easily, and lay them on the soil in your garden bed. These plants will break down over the winter months, returning nutrients to the soil. However, if you notice any signs of disease on your plants or just aren’t sure, it’s best to pull the entire plant up by the root. For things like powdery mildew, I’m generally not too worried about putting them into my regular compost. But if your tomatoes had blight, you may want to burn the foliage to try and stop it from spreading.

Add frost covers

There’s a good chance you have some plants that can withstand cooler temperatures and give you harvests well into December with a little planning. Plants in the brassica family for example have the ability to produce a type of natural anti-freeze that converts into sugars and makes the plants taste even better after a frost. But you can extend their life even further by utilizing frost covers which act as a cozy winter blanket and keep out the wind chill and moisture that causes the most damage to these cold hardy plants. These covers act as a shield against harsh frost, preserving the warmth around the plants and preventing frost damage. It's a simple yet effective measure to safeguard your garden and extend your harvest.

Look for abandoned tools

In the chaos of summer gardening, I know I’m not the only one who has lost track of a tool or two. It’s too easy to get swept up in the task at hand, exhaust yourself and then say you’ll “clean up later” but every gardener knows that later never comes. Take a quick inventory of your garden tools and do a walkaround for any abandoned tools that may have been left to rust so your valuable equipment doesn't deteriorate in the cold, wet weather. And then maybe make a plan for next year so you have an easily accessible drop point in your garden where you can keep tools without having to remember to walk them back to the shed.

Oil and clean tools

Now that you’ve recovered your neglected tools, it’s a great time to give them some TLC. Clean off any dirt with a dry brush, sharpen the blades and apply a protective coat of oil to prevent rusting and keep your tools in top-notch condition. For your more precious tools (like my Felcos) it’s worth taking the time to learn how to disassemble and oil any interior components. I know it seems like a lot of tiny pieces, but if you spend a bit of time watching how-tos on YouTube, anyone can do it with an hour or two to spare. This small effort pays off when spring arrives, and you can dive straight into gardening without dealing with rusty, malfunctioning tools.

Disconnect hoses

Frozen hoses can lead to burst pipes and costly repairs. To avoid this, disconnect and drain hoses before temperatures plummet. In most modern homes, each exterior spigot should have its own shut off point. Storing them in a shed or garage ensures they stay in good shape, ready for use when the growing season returns.

Make leaf mold

The more leaves you can “leaf” in place, the happier your lawn and neighborhood wildlife will be. But if you must rake up your leaves, you should definitely turn them into leaf mold. Creating a dedicated spot in your yard for leaves to break down will result in a rich, crumbly material that acts as a fantastic soil conditioner, improving the structure and fertility of your garden soil. It's a sustainable way to recycle nature's abundance and enhance your garden's health.

Wrap trees

Especially in very cold climates like mine, young trees or those susceptible to winter damage benefit from being wrapped with burlap or tree wrap. This protective layer shields the bark from harsh winter conditions, preventing sunscald and frost cracks. It's a simple yet effective measure for the long-term health of your trees.

Mulch perennials

We aren’t the only ones who benefit from an extra blanket or two in the winter months. A layer of mulch such as wood chips, pine needles or straw around perennial plants acts as insulation, protecting their roots from extreme temperatures. It also helps retain moisture and suppresses weeds, contributing to the overall well-being of your garden beds during the winter months. A good rule of thumb is to use four to six inches of mulch around the plants - just don’t press the mulch up against the plant itself. We are insulating the roots, not the aboveground parts.

Empty outdoor planters so they don’t crack

Freezing and thawing cycles can cause soil in containers to expand and contract, which can cause your clay or ceramic pots to crack. To avoid this, empty out some or all of the soil from your breakable containers or, if space allows, move them to a sheltered area. This simple step ensures your pots remain intact and ready for planting in the spring.

Prep new garden bed areas with cardboard and compost

If you're planning new garden beds for the next growing season, winter is an excellent time to start preparing the ground using the lasagna method. Lay down untreated cardboard to smother weeds and grass, and top it with compost, leaves or straw. This not only enriches the soil but also creates a weed-free foundation for your future garden.

Cover crops

Sowing cover crops, such as winter rye or clover, during the fall is a smart way to protect and improve your garden soil. These crops prevent soil erosion, suppress weeds, and add organic matter as they decompose. Come spring, you can easily incorporate them into the soil, providing a nutrient boost for your plants.

Cover raised beds

This one is more specific to my raised beds because they are off of the ground. While they are weather resistant on their own being made of cedar, in order to make them last as long as possible I grabbed firewood rack covers that are the exact size of my raised beds. These waterproof covers will protect my beds from the elements - but be aware that they can cause soil to turn hydrophobic if they totally dry out over the winter and aren’t typically necessary with standard raised beds. Because my raised beds also have wicking trays built into them, I’ve disconnected the tubes underneath so water won’t sit stagnant in the beds all winter. The arch trellises are powder coated, so they’ll be just fine out in the elements over the winter.

Watch me prep my own garden over on YouTube!

There’s always more that can be done to prepare the garden for winter, and some tips will be more specific to your garden setup. But with all this checked off my list, I’m looking forward to a slower season of rest and planning, organizing my seed collection (and let’s be real, buying a lot more) as well as drawing up new garden bed layouts for the spring. What are you doing to prep your garden for the winter months now?

Debunking Soil Myths: Solving The Mysteries Behind Good Soil Health

What’s so important about garden soil anyway?

Soil provides the foundation for plant growth. Different plants have specific soil requirements in terms of texture, composition, and pH levels. Understanding the soil allows gardeners to choose plants that are well-suited to the conditions, promoting healthier and more robust growth.

Soil serves as a reservoir for essential nutrients that plants need for their growth and development. By understanding soil composition, gardeners can identify nutrient deficiencies or excesses and adjust fertilizer applications accordingly. This ensures that plants receive the right balance of nutrients for optimal health.

Soil influences water retention and drainage. Some soils retain water well, while others drain quickly. Understanding soil characteristics helps gardeners implement appropriate watering practices. Overwatering or underwatering can lead to problems like root rot or dehydration, so a balanced approach is essential.

Knowledge of soil types and structures enables gardeners to implement erosion control measures. Certain plants and groundcovers can help prevent soil erosion, ensuring that valuable topsoil is retained and not washed away during heavy rainfall.

Soil structure, influenced by its texture and organic matter content, plays a role in aeration and root penetration. Gardeners can take steps to improve soil structure, such as adding organic amendments, which enhances the overall health of the soil and facilitates better plant growth.

Knowledge of soil conditions allows gardeners to tailor their gardening practices to the specific needs of their plants. This includes choosing appropriate planting times, selecting suitable varieties, and implementing effective weed control strategies.

What are the Key Factors Impacting Soil Health?

Several key factors influence soil health. The relative proportions of sand, silt, and clay in the soil determine its texture. Different textures impact water retention, drainage, and nutrient availability. The amount of organic material in the soil affects its fertility, structure, and water-holding capacity. Organic matter improves soil structure and provides essential nutrients for plant growth.

The pH level of the soil indicates its acidity or alkalinity. Different plants have specific pH preferences. Soil pH influences nutrient availability, microbial activity, and overall plant health. Essential nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients, are crucial for plant growth. Soil testing helps determine nutrient levels, allowing gardeners to adjust fertilizer applications based on plant needs.

Healthy soil is teeming with microorganisms like bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. These microbes play a vital role in nutrient cycling, organic matter decomposition, and disease suppression. A diverse and active microbial community contributes to soil fertility.

Soil structure influences water retention and drainage. Sandy soils drain quickly but may not retain enough water, while clayey soils can retain water but may drain poorly. Ideal soil structure balances water retention and drainage.

Adequate aeration is crucial for root health and microbial activity. Compacted soil restricts air movement, leading to poor aeration. Practices such as tilling and adding organic matter can improve soil aeration. Soil erosion can degrade soil health by removing the topsoil layer. Factors like slope, rainfall, and vegetation cover influence erosion rates. Implementing erosion control measures, such as cover cropping and mulching, helps protect soil.

Biodiversity in the soil includes a variety of plants, microbes, and other organisms. Diverse ecosystems contribute to soil health by enhancing nutrient cycling, pest control, and overall ecosystem resilience.

Exploration of Soil Texture (Sand, Silt, Clay)

Soil is composed of mineral particles, organic matter, water, and air. The relative proportions of three main mineral particles—sand, silt, and clay—determine the soil's texture. Each type of soil particle has distinct characteristics, influencing the soil's properties and its suitability for different plants.

Sand particles are the largest among the three soil types, with diameters ranging from 0.05 to 2.0 millimeters. Sandy soil feels gritty and coarse to the touch. Sand has excellent drainage due to large particles, but water retention is low. It has good aeration, as sand allows air to move freely through the soil, but low fertility, as sand doesn't retain nutrients well. It is suitable for plants that prefer well-draining soil, such as cacti and succulents.

Silt particles are smaller than sand but larger than clay, with diameters ranging from 0.002 to 0.05 millimeters. Silty soil feels smooth and flour-like when dry and slippery when wet. Silt has oderate drainage and retains water better than sand. It compacts more easily than sand and is better at retaining nutrients than sand but not as well as clay. It is suitable for a wide range of plants, but benefits from organic matter to improve fertility and structure.

Clay particles are the smallest among the three, with diameters less than 0.002 millimeters. Clay soil feels smooth and sticky when wet and hard and clumpy when dry. Clay has poor drainage but retains water very well. It easily becomes compacted, but has high fertility. Clay soil is suitable for plants that tolerate or benefit from moisture retention, such as certain vegetables and water-loving plants.

Understanding the soil texture in a particular area helps gardeners make informed decisions about plant selection, watering practices, and soil amendments. Loam is a balanced soil type that contains a mixture of sand, silt, and clay, offering good drainage, aeration, and fertility. Gardeners often aim to improve soil structure by adding organic matter, which benefits all soil types by enhancing water retention, nutrient availability, and overall soil health.

Why You Should Add Organic Matter to Soil

Organic matter is a cornerstone of soil health, influencing nutrient availability, soil structure, water retention, and overall ecosystem dynamics. Organic matter acts as a reservoir for essential nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. It has the ability to retain and slowly release these nutrients to plant roots, ensuring a steady supply for optimal growth.

Organic matter improves soil structure by promoting the formation of aggregates. This enhances soil porosity, allowing for better water infiltration and root penetration. Well-structured soil facilitates root development and provides aeration. It also increases the soil's water-holding capacity. It can absorb and retain water, making it available to plants during dry periods. This is especially beneficial in sandy soils with poor water retention.

Organic matter serves as a food source for soil microbes. Microorganisms, including bacteria and fungi, break down organic matter into simpler compounds, releasing nutrients in a form that plants can absorb. This microbial activity contributes to overall soil fertility. It has a buffering effect on soil pH. It helps stabilize soil pH levels, preventing rapid fluctuations. This is important because many plant nutrients are most available within specific pH ranges.

Some components of organic matter, like certain compounds produced during decomposition, can have suppressive effects on soil-borne diseases. This contributes to the overall health of plants in the soil. And the improvement of soil structure through organic matter helps prevent soil erosion. Stable soil structure reduces the risk of topsoil being washed away during heavy rainfall.

Common Myths About Soil

Myth 1: Fertilizer Can Fix Any Soil Issue

While fertilizers are valuable tools for enhancing soil fertility and promoting plant growth, they come with certain limitations that need to be considered. Fertilizers typically provide specific nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. However, they may not contain the full spectrum of micronutrients and trace elements that plants need for optimal growth. Over-reliance on specific fertilizers may lead to nutrient imbalances.

Excessive use of fertilizers can lead to overapplication of nutrients. This not only wastes resources but can also have detrimental effects on the environment. Nutrient runoff from fields into water bodies can contribute to water pollution and ecological imbalances. The production, transportation, and application of synthetic fertilizers have environmental implications. The manufacturing process often involves energy-intensive procedures, and the runoff of excess nutrients can contribute to issues like algal blooms and waterway pollution. Continuous reliance on fertilizers without considering soil health and organic matter can create a dependency on external inputs. This may lead to a decline in natural soil fertility and long-term sustainability issues.

Certain fertilizers can influence soil pH. For example, nitrogen-based fertilizers can contribute to soil acidification over time. This can impact nutrient availability and the overall health of the soil. Some fertilizers, especially those containing high concentrations of salts, can lead to salt accumulation in the soil. This can be harmful to plant roots, affecting their ability to take up water and nutrients.

Plants may not utilize all the nutrients provided by fertilizers. Factors such as soil conditions, weather, and plant health can affect the efficiency of nutrient uptake. Unutilized nutrients may contribute to environmental pollution. Fertilizers provide a short-term solution to nutrient deficiencies. While they can boost plant growth in the immediate term, they do not address underlying soil health issues. Sustainable practices, such as incorporating organic matter, are necessary for long-term soil fertility.

Myth 2: All Soils Are the Same

Soils are incredibly diverse, and their variations arise from a combination of factors such as climate, parent material, topography, vegetation, and time. The geological material from which soils develop, known as parent material, greatly influences soil properties. Different types of rocks and minerals contribute distinct minerals to the soil, impacting its texture, nutrient composition, and overall characteristics.

Climate plays a significant role in soil formation. The amount and distribution of rainfall, temperature fluctuations, and freeze-thaw cycles all contribute to the physical and chemical weathering of rocks. These weathering processes shape the texture and composition of soils in a particular region.

The landscape, or topography, influences how water moves across the soil. Sloped areas may experience more erosion, leading to differences in soil depth and composition. Flat or valley regions may accumulate sediments differently, resulting in varied soil profiles.

The types of plants that grow in an area impact soil characteristics. Plants contribute organic matter through leaf litter and root systems, influencing soil structure, nutrient cycling, and microbial activity. Different vegetation types lead to variations in soil organic content. The presence and activity of soil organisms, such as bacteria, fungi, earthworms, and insects, contribute to soil diversity. Biological processes, including decomposition and nutrient cycling, vary across different ecosystems, shaping the unique characteristics of soils.

The acidity or alkalinity of soils, represented by pH levels, can vary widely. Different plants have specific pH preferences, influencing the types of vegetation that thrive in a particular soil and, consequently, the characteristics of that soil. Specific geographical features, such as river valleys, hills, and coastal plains, contribute to variations in soil types. The proximity to water bodies, elevation changes, and drainage patterns all play roles in shaping the unique characteristics of soils in different regions.

Myth 3: Vinegar as weed killer won’t damage soil

The myth that vinegar as a weed killer won't damage soil stems from the belief that because vinegar is a natural substance, it won't have negative impacts on the soil. However, this notion oversimplifies the complexity of soil ecosystems and the potential consequences of using vinegar as a weed killer. Vinegar is acidic, and its acetic acid content is what makes it effective in killing weeds. However, high acidity can have detrimental effects on soil pH. Excessive use of vinegar can lead to soil acidification, negatively impacting nutrient availability and the overall health of the soil. Soil is home to a diverse community of microorganisms crucial for nutrient cycling, decomposition, and overall soil health. The acidity of vinegar can potentially harm beneficial soil microbes, disrupting the balance of the soil ecosystem.

Vinegar-based weed killers are non-selective, meaning they can harm both weeds and desirable plants. Overspray or unintended contact with plants you want to keep can result in damage, affecting the overall plant diversity in the area.

Vinegar is a contact herbicide, meaning it primarily affects the parts of the plant it comes into direct contact with. It may not address the underlying causes of weed growth, such as soil compaction or nutrient imbalances, making it a short-term solution.

There are alternative, more sustainable practices for weed control that don't pose risks to soil health. For example, mulching, hand weeding, and maintaining proper plant spacing are methods that promote weed suppression without negatively impacting the soil.

Myth 4: Tilling is Always Beneficial

Tilling, or the mechanical cultivation of soil, has been a traditional practice in agriculture for centuries. While it can offer benefits in certain situations, there are instances where tilling the soil may not be a good idea due to various drawbacks. Tilling can disrupt the natural structure of the soil. It breaks down soil aggregates and destroys pore spaces, leading to compaction over time. This impairs water infiltration, root penetration, and air circulation, affecting overall soil health. Tilled soil is more susceptible to erosion, especially in areas with sloping terrain. The disruption of the soil surface removes natural protection against water and wind erosion, leading to the loss of valuable topsoil.

Tilling accelerates the decomposition of organic matter in the soil. Organic matter is crucial for soil fertility, structure, and water retention. Excessive tilling can deplete organic matter, leading to nutrient deficiencies and reduced soil quality. Tilling brings buried weed seeds to the surface, exposing them to light and promoting germination. This can lead to increased weed growth, counteracting the initial purpose of tilling.

Tilling disrupts the habitat of soil microorganisms. Beneficial microbes play a key role in nutrient cycling, organic matter decomposition, and disease suppression. Excessive tilling can harm these microbes, impacting soil fertility and ecosystem balance. And while tilling initially loosens the soil, repeated or improper tilling can contribute to long-term soil compaction. The disruption of soil structure and creation of a plow pan can hinder water movement and root development.

Conservation tillage and no-till practices have gained popularity as alternatives to traditional tilling. These methods help maintain soil structure, reduce erosion, and conserve moisture while minimizing the negative impacts associated with frequent and intensive tilling.

WHAT SOIL IS BEST FOR RAISED BEDS?

The best soil for traditional raised beds that sit on the ground is a mix of topsoil, compost, and sand. Topsoil provides nutrients and drainage. Compost improves the soil quality. And sand helps to aerate the soil. You can buy a pre-made mix of soil for raised beds or you can make your own. I always recommend Coast of Maine soil mixes for filling raised beds. Their Castine Blend™ Organic & Natural Raised Bed Mix is the ideal soil for raised bed organic gardening. It is carefully formulated to provide balance between structure, water retention, drainage and aeration for growing strong, vigorous vegetables, herbs and flowers in raised beds, planter boxes or other container gardens. It provides your garden the rich and diverse soil it needs.

Coast of Maine prides themselves on using a high quality enriched blend of fully cured compost, sphagnum peat moss, dehydrated poultry manure, lobster and crab shell meal, greensand, biochar, worm castings and mycorrhizae in their mixes. Close attention to detail with frequent turning, sampling and testing plus a lengthy aging and curing process produces dark, rich compost that builds soil and enhances plant growth.

If you are gardening in elevated raised beds like mine that are on legs, these are technically considered container gardens. It is important to use a lightweight potting mix (which has no actual soil in it) since your container gardens have different drainage and weight requirements.

Fall Gardening 101: How to Plant a Thriving Vegetable Garden for the Cooler Months

No one in a state that experiences all four seasons wants to think about fall and winter in the summer, but sometimes it pays to look ahead. If you’re wondering if it’s too late in the year to start a garden, or you’re noticing some gaps starting to form as your spring plantings reach the end of their harvestable life span, fall gardening is the answer. Gardening in zone 6, we don’t get to grow all year long unless we have cold frames, a green house or a hoop house - our season for a productive garden is from about May to October, and even within that limited season we have to contend with variable temperatures at the beginning and end of that time period. A fall garden is our final push to maximize the yield we can get in this limited time frame, as well as a second chance for beginner gardeners new to gardening to join in and get planting their first garden with easy to grow crops to start saving money and eating healthier.

Fall gardening is more limited, since not as many plants thrive in the colder weather of September, October or November. But the plants that are resilient enough to survive these colder temps are that much more gratifying to harvest. In this blog post, you’ll learn everything you need to know to plant a fall garden and keep your garden going as long as possible.

Types of vegetables that can be grown in the fall

Certain groups of vegetables thrive in the cooler temperatures of fall, and many even require that cooler weather in order to germinate properly. Some can survive temps as low as 20F degrees. Coincidentally, many of these are great options for beginners to grow if you’re just starting out. Fall vegetables are fast growing, since they need to reach maturity in a short amount of time before the cold of winter sets in fully, so you’ll be reaping the rewards of your garden quickly. They are usually pretty low maintenance too, so if you’re a beginner fall is the perfect time to start gardening.

Where to buy vegetable seeds

Botanical Interests is the only place I order vegetable seeds online. The quality is unmatched, they offer a wide variety of seeds and their customer service is excellent. I did about fifty percent transplants from the nursery in the garden this year and fifty percent direct sowed to avoid dealing with a seed starting setup this spring, and everything that I direct sowed in my garden this year came from Botanical Interests, and I had zero issues with germination. It doesn’t hurt that the seed packet illustrations are pretty enough to frame either. Of course, you can also get all the flowers and summer crops you’ll want for your garden too.

Here’s my top recommendations for planting your fall vegetable garden with picks and descriptions from Botanical Interests

Leafy greens

Many leafy greens germinate best in cooler temperatures. Wait to plant these until the heat of summer has fully passed for a quick harvest and you’ll be enjoying salads well into October (or add a DIY cold frame to your garden for fresh greens all winter long)

LETTUCE

From the Botanical Interests website:

Butterhead, also called Boston or Bibb, has soft, smooth leaves perfect for carb-free wraps.

Crisphead is your familiar iceberg, which perfectly complements a BLT sandwich.

Mesclun, literally means mixture, creating a diversity of texture and color. Mesclun is harvested when young, and perfect for a multitude of culinary dishes.

Leaf lettuce is soft, with a crisp rib and can be not only green, but red or red-tipped.

Romaine lettuce is upright with broad, stiff ribs—the classic ingredient in a crisp Caesar salad.

Summer Crisp, also called Batavia, forms a loose head with green or red leaves that are sweet and crisp.

SPINACH

'Bloomsdale' is an early 1800's, dependable, open-pollinated variety. For growing tender, baby greens in as little as 28 days, you can sow seeds just 1" apart. Very nutritious—lots of vitamins A and C and iron. Grows great in a container too!

SWISS CHARD

'Celebration' is a multi-colored chard that produces uniform plants with dark green, glossy leaves. Vibrant multi-colored petioles (stems) are various shades of pink, yellow, white, and orange.

Root vegetables

Root vegetables are sweetest and juiciest when harvested in cool weather. They usually prefer warmer temperatures to germinate, so you’ll want to get your seeds planted in August for a fall harvest. They tend to store for a long time in cold storage too, and certain crops like carrots can even be left in the frozen ground over the winter and harvested in the following year in early spring - the freeze makes them even sweeter!

CARROTS

Grown and eaten in Asia and Europe 1,000 years ago, these colorful carrots are available once again. Just like the popular orange carrots, red, purple, white, and yellow carrots contain plenty of vitamin A and other healthful nutrients. Carnival Blend carrots can also be harvested when only 3"-4" long for gourmet baby carrots.

RADISHES

'Round Black Spanish', also known as 'Noir Gros Rond d'Hiver', grown in the U.S. since the 1800s, is an extra large, winter radish that adds spiciness to raw or cooked dishes; spiciness declines when cooked. Winter radishes require a shortening day length and cool temperatures to mature the edible root; sow after mid-summer and into early fall. They can be stored for long periods.

'French Breakfast' has endured in gardens for over 100 years because of its wonderful, delicate flavor. This spring radish grows best during the cool periods of spring and fall but will also withstand some summer heat!

TURNIPS

Pure white and mild, 'Market Express' is a great baby turnip in salads, crudité trays, and pickling, as well as traditional cooked turnip dishes. The roots have a smooth texture and slightly sweet, fruity flavor that upgrades homegrown meals, and the greens are also delicious. Fast growing, enjoy 2" baby-sized turnips in only 30 days, or grow them to full size (4"–5") in just 40 days.

The globe-shaped roots of ‘Purple Top White Globe Turnips’ have purple shoulders above ground and are creamy-white below the soil level.

BEETS

Aside from the health benefits, which include significant amounts of fiber, potassium, folic acid, and vitamin C, beets come in many colors. 'Gourmet Blend' includes 'Detroit Dark Red' with deep red roots and delicious dark green tops, 'Chioggia' with interior rings of bright pink and white, and 'Golden' with bright yellow flesh.

Brassicas

Plants in the brassica family produce a form of antifreeze when exposed to cold temperatures that actually causes the plants to taste sweeter. I enjoy winter kale far more than summer kale - not to mention, there’s no cabbage moth pests in the winter chewing through every leaf before I have a chance to harvest it.

KALE:

'Red Russian', brought to North America in 1885, is sweet and tender all the time, making it excellent for mesclun, garnishes, and sautéing. The red veins, wavy margins, and foliage that resembles oak leaves make 'Red Russian' as attractive as it is delicious. Harvest baby greens in just 21 days.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

‘Long Island Improved’ produce 1"–1½", blue-green orbs that look like tiny cabbage heads, and grow tightly and densely against the main trunk of the plant. The cluster of leaves at the top of the plant give it a palm-tree-like look. Long Island Improved was developed in the 1890s, quickly becoming the garden standard, and continues to be a dependable heirloom for home gardeners.

CAULIFLOWER

‘Snowball Y’ provides flavorful, 6" snow-white heads in just 70 to 80 days. The leaves naturally curl nicely around the heads providing self-blanching and protection from sun scald. Mature heads hold well in the garden, so they don't all have to be picked at once.

BROCCOLI

'Waltham 29' grows prolific side shoots and is specially adapted for cold tolerance. Freezes well. The 4"-6", blue-green heads are delicious raw or cooked.

Sprouting broccolis, like 'Burgundy', create one moderate to small main head, but the real show starts as it begins to produce generous side shoots. Purple broccolis are known for being quite tender, flavorful, and full of antioxidants, but in most cases also a bit fickle, needing cool temperatures–not 'Burgundy'; it's tolerant of a wider range of temperatures, which means a longer harvest period. Some gardeners pinch the first main floret off as soon as it is visible to encourage more abundant side shoots.

Garden Tip

Make sure to prepare your soil by top dressing your beds with fertilizer before you add new plants to your garden, as the soil is likely depleted from all the growth of the past few months. Pest pressure should be a lot lighter in your fall garden, and you won’t need to water as often since there won’t be as much heat drying out the soil. Fall gardening is an easy and fun way to extend your growing season, I hope you’ll give it a try!