How Do Greenhouses Work?

What is the Purpose of a Greenhouse?

A greenhouse is a structure primarily made of transparent materials, such as glass or plastic, designed to cultivate plants by harnessing sunlight and creating a controlled and protected growing environment. The purpose of a greenhouse is to extend the growing season for plants, protect them from adverse weather conditions like frost, excessive heat, or strong winds, and provide an optimal environment for growth by regulating temperature, humidity, and light levels. They allow you to grow plants that may not otherwise grow well in your climate. Greenhouses are used for various purposes, including growing flowers, vegetables, fruits, and ornamental plants, as well as for research and experimentation in agriculture and botany. They are essential for commercial farming, allowing growers to produce crops year-round in regions with harsh climates or limited growing seasons.

Different types of greenhouses

Traditional/Even-Span Greenhouses are the most common type, characterized by a gable roof and straight sidewalls. They offer good space utilization and are suitable for a wide range of crops. However, ventilation options are more limited and they are susceptible to snow accumulation on the roof.

Quonset greenhouses have a semicircular shape, providing good wind resistance and snow shedding capabilities. They are often used in areas with harsh weather conditions. The main complaints with this style of greenhouse are less usable growing space compared to traditional designs and limited headroom near the sides.

Lean-To are attached to an existing structure, such as a house or a building, on one side. They are space-efficient and cost-effective, making them ideal for small gardens or limited spaces. Sunlight exposure may be limited depending on orientation and they may require modifications to the existing structure for proper attachment.

Dome-shaped structures offer excellent strength and stability, along with efficient use of space. They are popular for their aesthetic appeal and suitability for geodesic designs. However, their construction is more complex and there is limited headroom near the edges.

A-Frame structures have a triangular shape resembling the letter "A." They provide good ventilation and snow shedding capabilities, making them suitable for areas with heavy snowfall. They may have less usable growing space due to sloped sides and limited headroom near the edges.

Sawtooth greenhouses have a series of ridges and valleys along the roof, allowing for optimal light penetration and ventilation. They are commonly used in commercial operations. Construction is more complex and more materials are needed compared to traditional designs.

Greenhouses made primarily of glass provide maximum light transmission for optimal plant growth. They are often used for ornamental plants and high-value crops. They can be expensive and have less insulating properties

Plastic greenhouses utilize polyethylene or polycarbonate materials for covering. They are lightweight, cost-effective, and offer good insulation properties. The lifespan is more limited as they are susceptible to damage from UV rays and extreme weather conditions, and the materials are not sustainable.

How does a greenhouse work?

A greenhouse replicates and enhances the greenhouse effect through a process that involves trapping solar radiation within its enclosed space. Sunlight enters the greenhouse through transparent materials like glass or plastic. These materials allow short-wave solar radiation (mostly visible light) to pass through with relative ease. Once inside the greenhouse, the surfaces of the plants, soil, and other objects absorb the incoming solar radiation. This absorbed energy is then re-radiated as longer-wavelength infrared radiation (heat).

The greenhouse gases present within the greenhouse, such as carbon dioxide (CO2), water vapor (H2O), and methane (CH4), absorb a portion of this infrared radiation. These gases have molecules that can vibrate in resonance with the infrared radiation, trapping heat within the greenhouse.

As the greenhouse gases absorb infrared radiation, they re-emit a portion of it in all directions, including back towards the surfaces of the plants and structures inside the greenhouse. This process effectively traps heat energy within the enclosed space, creating a warmer environment than the surrounding air outside.

The enclosed space of the greenhouse allows for better regulation of temperature compared to the external environment. During the day, solar radiation heats up the greenhouse, and at night, the trapped heat keeps temperatures from dropping too low. Ventilation systems and other mechanisms can be used to manage temperature and humidity levels to create optimal growing conditions for plants.

What are greenhouses made of?

Greenhouses can be constructed from various materials, each with its own set of pros and cons. The choice of materials for a greenhouse depends on factors such as budget, climate, desired lifespan, aesthetic preferences, and intended use. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages, and growers should carefully consider these factors when planning and constructing their greenhouse. Glass provides maximum light transmission for optimal plant growth. It is durable and long-lasting and aesthetically pleasing. Glass can be expensive to purchase and install., and fragile and prone to breakage. Glass also has limited insulation properties compared to other materials. Polycarbonate Panels offer good light transmission while diffusing sunlight to reduce glare. They are lightweight and impact-resistant with excellent insulation properties, retaining heat better than glass. It is not as clear as glass, which may reduce light quality slightly. Polycarbonate can yellow or become brittle over time with exposure to UV radiation and the initial cost may be higher than some other materials.

Acrylic Panels offer good light transmission with high clarity and they are lightweight and impact-resistant with better insulation properties than glass. However they can be susceptible to scratching and become brittle over time with exposure to UV radiation. Fiberglass Panels are lightweight and durable with good light transmission and diffused light properties. Plus they are resistant to corrosion and weathering. Fiberglass can yellow or become brittle over time with exposure to UV radiation and has a lower light transmission compared to glass or some plastics.

Metal Frames like aluminum or steel are strong and durable, resistant to rust and corrosion and lightweight and easy to assemble. However metal is a conductive material, which can lead to heat loss in colder climates and the initial cost may be higher than wooden frames. They also require insulation to prevent condensation and heat loss. Wood Frames offer a natural look and aesthetic appeal with good insulation properties and can be customized and easily modified. However, they are prone to rot, insect damage, and warping if not properly treated and require regular maintenance (painting, sealing) to prolong lifespan. The initial cost may be higher than metal frames.

What are the benefits of greenhouse gardening?

Greenhouses provide a controlled environment that extends the growing season by protecting plants from frost, cold temperatures, and adverse weather conditions. This allows for year-round cultivation of crops that may not thrive outdoors during certain times of the year, which makes them essential in short, cold growing climates like we have here in Massachusetts as they allow us to get a head start on long season crops and keep them protected later in the season. Greenhouses allow growers to create and maintain optimal growing conditions by regulating temperature, humidity, light levels, and ventilation. This controlled environment promotes healthy plant growth, reduces stress on plants, and minimizes the risk of pests and diseases.

With the ability to control environmental factors, greenhouse gardening often leads to higher crop yields and better quality produce compared to outdoor cultivation. Growers can optimize growing conditions to maximize productivity and harvests. Greenhouses provide a physical barrier that helps protect plants from pests, insects, and diseases. This reduces the need for chemical pesticides and fungicides, leading to healthier plants and safer produce.

Greenhouses can be designed with efficient irrigation systems that minimize water usage by delivering water directly to the plants' roots. Additionally, the enclosed environment reduces water loss through evaporation, leading to more efficient water use compared to outdoor gardening.

Greenhouses come in various sizes and designs, allowing growers to maximize space utilization and grow a wide range of crops in a relatively small area. Vertical gardening techniques can also be employed to further optimize space and increase production. Greenhouses offer flexibility in crop selection and cultivation methods, allowing growers to experiment with different plant varieties, growing techniques, and crop rotations. This versatility enables growers to adapt to changing market demands and consumer preferences.

Greenhouse gardening can be more environmentally sustainable than traditional outdoor farming practices. By minimizing the need for chemical inputs, reducing water usage, and optimizing resource utilization, greenhouse growers can reduce their environmental footprint and contribute to conservation efforts.

Looking for a high quality pre-made greenhouse in Massachusetts?

Hometown Structures offers the finest craftsmanship with custom designs in a wide variety of sizes perfect for the home gardener to give your plants the perfect climate to thrive in a protected environment, keep pests away from your plants, grow plants and food that don’t otherwise exist in your area/climate and extend your season with options including 8mm twin wall polycarbonate for optimal insulation, venting and windows. Every custom shed greenhouse comes with 50-Year LP Siding and 30-Year Collapse From Snow Warranty.

Tap here to visit their website to learn more and book a design consultation today.

Olla Watering System: Everything You Need to Know to Get Started

The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.

Did you know you can water your entire garden bed without lifting a finger and reduce your waste water by 70% for about $5 using just a clay pot? Today I’m going to show you how to make a self watering olla pot system for your own garden.

What is an olla watering system?

Olla (pronounced oya) means “pot” in Spanish, but the concept of using ollas as an irrigation system goes back thousands of years and has been used in countless cultures around the world. An olla watering system is basically any type of unglazed clay pot that is buried beneath the soil with only a small amount sticking up above the surface and filled with water. You can tell that a pot is unglazed because it will be that classic terracotta red color with no shiny finish, glaze or paint. The water then leeches out of tiny holes or “pores” in the unglazed clay and is pulled through the soil to the roots of your thirsty plants using a process called soil moisture tension. This functions much the same way as osmosis, in that the water is trying to equalize to a certain level of moisture within the soil. This means your soil will never become overwatered either - if the soil is moist, the water stays in the pot until it is needed.

Why should you use an olla watering pot?

Watering the garden is a task that isn’t easy for everyone. Personally, I struggle with bending down and kneeling in the garden to water and weed because of my arthritis. When I was planning my garden this past spring I was in the middle of a bad flare and I knew I needed to choose an irrigation system that would ease some of the physical demands of gardening and allow me to continue growing all the fruits and vegetables I could without hurting myself. There are so many different watering systems available today, from drip irrigation to sprinklers, but I wanted to find something that was budget-friendly and used common everyday items.

An olla pot is perfect for garden irrigation because all you need is a clay pot and some type of lid. You only need to fill them every 2-5 days depending on your climate (hotter, dryer climates will be on the lower end of that spectrum and wetter, cooler climates on the higher end) and it takes just one minute or so to fill the pot from your watering can versus standing there for ages with a hose.

As of August 30, 2022, 38.23% of the U.S. and 45.53% of the Lower 48 states were in drought. With climate change on the rise, this number is only expected to get worse. I know in our tiny town we are under a water restriction notice for most of the summer, and this is a common issue in many neighborhoods. I’ve even heard a few reports that said to expect summer 2022 to be the coolest for the rest of our lives - and it felt like the hottest one yet. Not only does a watering restriction in your town eliminate hose watering as an option, it means any watering system you do use should be as efficient and waste as little water as possible.

Olla pots reduce wasted water by about seventy percent, since most of the moisture is held underground and not lost to surface evaporation. This is a huge savings over traditional watering methods and means you can significantly reduce your water consumption in our drought-prone climate. This will lower your water bill as well as make your homestead more environmentally friendly!

Olla pots also help you to grow happier and healthier plants. The root systems in your plants will also be healthier, as they reach out towards the underground water the roots will become larger and sturdier, keeping your plants from falling over. Most importantly, plants that are watered at the soil level are less prone to infection with certain fungal diseases that thrive in damp environments, since the leaves of your plants will not get wet as often. Because of the soil moisture tension phenomenon, your plants will also never be overwatered.

What is the best olla pot you can buy?

This DIY olla may not be for you if you can’t find genuine terracotta pots affordably in your area, or don’t have the time to make one yourself. If you can’t make your own olla, or you want hook up your ollas to an automatic rainwater harvesting system that will continuously refill your ollas for you from free rainwater collected from your roof, check out this automated olla watering system.

I added this drip irrigation/olla hybrid setup to 3 of my raised beds, and it’s made an already pretty hands-off system completely self-sustaining; water is collected from my roof into a 50 gallon barrel, flows automatically into reservoirs and down the irrigation tube into individual terracotta cups. Setup is easy - in my opinion, this is the perfect garden watering solution.

What plants grow well with olla pots?

There is some debate about whether olla pots work for any type of plant. Of course, all plants have different water needs and root systems. In my experience and from comments in my community, there doesn’t seem to be any plant that can’t thrive with an olla pot - from trees to squash, corn and beans, all the way down to simple lettuce. Experiment in your own garden and find what works best for you!

How do you make an olla watering system?

Here’s the supplies you will need to make an olla watering pot system:

• 1 eight to ten inch unglazed terracotta pot per 4x4 foot area - click here for the ones I use

• Moldable glue if your pot has a hole in the bottom (I like sugru)

• Plant saucer to use as a lid - click here for the lids I use

• A rock or two to weight down your lid
  

1. You will want to start by calculating how many olla pots you will need. As a general rule of thumb, you should have one olla pot per four by four foot area in your garden. The olla pot can water up to two feet away from where it is buried, which means even if your garden is just two feet wide by eight feet long you’d want two olla pots - one every two feet.

2. If your olla pot has a hole in the bottom, you’ll need to cover this so the water you put in doesn’t just pour right out the bottom. You can cover the hole in the bottom of the olla pot with sugru moldable glue, caulking, clay, poster mounting putty, a cork or something similar.

3. Dig out a space to bury your olla pot in your garden bed. You can olla pots in raised beds or in-ground gardens, but you’ll need larger olla pots for in-ground beds, ten to twelve inches should be fine. The hole should be about as deep as your pot is tall - however, my raised beds are too shallow to fully bury the pot and they still work fine.

4. Place your olla pot into the hole and replace the soil around the edges of the olla.

Fill the olla with water and cover with your chosen lid. This helps to keep bugs out and prevents the water from just evaporating before it has a chance to seep into the soil. My lid is very lightweight, so I chose to weigh it down with a rock and then decided to add even more small pebbles and rocks to create a watering station for pollinators.

Depending on your climate you will need to refill the olla every 2-5 days. I recommend checking it the day after you install to make sure there’s no leaks in your olla - if all the water is gone and it wasn’t a heat wave that day I’d check your seal and try again. Then check every other day until you get a sense for how often you need to refill the pot.

wILL YOU TRY THIS EASY WAY TO WATER YOUR GARDEN? lET ME KNOW IN THE COMMENTS IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS!

Forcing Forsythia Indoors For Early Spring Blooms

Spring is a time of new beginnings, and this is reflected in the blooms of many plants. I spend more distracted minutes than I care to admit staring out of windows each day hoping for a streak of color in the garden beds to bring life back into the cold and gray landscape of early spring. In my gardens, the first to appear are the purple crocuses, small and delicate. Following behind soon after will be the daffodils - cheerful yellow and white blooms to ring in the season and excellent flowers for your vase. Before long it is a cacophony of blossoms, from tulips with their vibrant colors and delicate blooms to lilac and hyacinths, fragrant flowers that come in a range of colors, from pastels to bright hues, and are a favorite of gardeners and florists alike.

I’ll be the first to admit that winter isn’t the easiest season for me. Living in New England, you’re forced to acclimate to the colder temperatures, but even after a lifetime spent in this northern climate I still struggle with just how long, cold and gray winter can be. My chronic pain is also made worse by colder weather affecting my joints. The only consolation is that spring is all the sweeter for it. You can’t miss what you can’t measure, and winter ensures that I never take the sweetness of spring for granted.

While I love each and every flower that appears, my favorite blooms this time of year are not the ones that poke their way up out of the thawing earth. I find inspiration in the dogwoods, cherry blossoms, magnolia and forsythia (a burst of sunshine) too. These flowering trees and shrubs are a beautiful addition to any spring landscape. But if you’re impatient like me, and the winter was long, you may find yourself wishing there was a way to speed things up a bit and enjoy a bit of spring in your own home. My favorite way to do just that? Take a trip outdoors (bundle up if you must!) and snip off a few of those wayward branches you were meaning to prune anyhow to force those spring bud branches to bloom indoors. This simple little trick is especially gratifying if you live with chronic pain like I do, and just need a quick way to feel connected with nature without putting additional stress on your body. Chronic illness can so easily take away parts of our identity (like being a gardener) if we let it. So I always like to prioritize small activities like this that reinforce my sense of self.

How can you force spring bud branches to bloom inside?

Forcing spring bud branches to bloom inside is a fun and easy process. All you need is a pair of sharp clippers and a container to fill with water and place your cuttings in. Once you’ve gathered your supplies, head outside and look for a branch (or ten) that needs pruning. You can accomplish two tasks in one this way - prune off unwanted branches at the perfect time of year to do so, as well as bring some beautiful flowers indoors!

• Cut branches: Cut branches from deciduous trees or shrubs that have swollen buds, but have not yet started to leaf out. Ideal trees to use are cherry, plum, apple, or forsythia. Cut branches early in the morning while they are still dormant, using sharp pruning shears to make a clean, angled cut. To improve your chances of success, make some small cuts up the ends of the branches as well.

• Hydrate: Place the cut branches in a container of warm water to allow them to hydrate and start absorbing water. You can add some flower food to the water to help extend the life of the blooms, but you don’t have to.

• Condition the branches: Place the container in a cool, dark room for a day or two to help the branches adjust to indoor conditions.

• Warmth and light: Move the container to a warm, bright room with indirect sunlight. This will help to promote the growth and blooming of the flowers.

• Change water regularly: Check the water level in the container daily and change it regularly to prevent the growth of bacteria that could harm the blooms.

• Wait: It may take several days to several weeks for the branches to start blooming, depending on the type of tree and the conditions in your home. Be patient, and enjoy the process of watching the flowers slowly start to appear.

Once the flowers have opened, you can arrange the branches in a vase and enjoy their beauty in your home. If you’re lucky, your branches may even develop roots in the water - you can try planting these outdoors when they are done blooming! Now you’ve pruned your plants, added beauty to your home AND propagated new ones for free. You can probably see why I love this little project so much!

How does forcing blooms work?

Forcing spring bud branches to bloom inside works by manipulating the environmental conditions that the branches experience, in order to encourage them to bloom earlier than they would naturally. By changing the temperature, light, and water conditions that the branches experience, you are effectively tricking the branches into thinking that spring has arrived earlier than it naturally would. This encourages the branches to bloom, allowing you to enjoy the beauty of spring in your home, even if the weather outside is still cold and dreary.

What plants can you force bloom indoors?

Many deciduous trees and shrubs can be used to force buds to bloom inside, but some work better than others. Here are a few species that are often used for this purpose:

• Forsythia: This is a popular choice for forcing due to its bright yellow flowers that bloom early in the spring and its hardy nature.

• Cherry: Cherry branches have delicate pink or white flowers that are very fragrant and make a beautiful addition to any room in your home.

• Plum: Plum branches produce fragrant, delicate flowers in shades of pink or white.

• Apple: Apple branches have delicate pink or white flowers that are lightly fragrant and make a beautiful addition to any room in your home.

• Magnolia: Magnolia branches have large, fragrant flowers in shades of pink, purple, or white, and make a dramatic statement when displayed indoors.

• Dogwood: Dogwood branches have delicate flowers in shades of pink or white, and are also prized for their attractive bark.

• Quince: Quince branches have fragrant, bright pink flowers that bloom early in the spring, making them a popular choice for forcing.

• Crabapple: Crabapple branches have delicate pink, red, or white flowers that are lightly fragrant and make a beautiful addition to any room in your home.

These are just a few examples of the many species that can be used. Play and experiment with different plants to see what works best for you.

What are the benefits of bringing fresh spring flowers inside?

There is a growing body of evidence to suggest that fresh flowers inside can have a positive impact on mental health. Here are a few of the key benefits:

• Boosts mood: Research has shown that flowers can have an immediate impact on mood, making people feel happier and more relaxed, as well as more balanced and centered.

• Improves memory: Studies have found that having fresh flowers in the home can improve memory, particularly in older adults.

• Increases creativity: Flowers have been found to stimulate the mind and increase creativity, making them a great addition to workspaces or creative spaces.

• Provides a connection to nature: Flowers are a reminder of the beauty and abundance of nature, providing a connection to the natural world and promoting feelings of peace and calm.

Bring fresh flowers inside have been shown to have a positive impact on mental health, helping people to feel happier, more relaxed, and more connected to the world around them.

Whether you enjoy having fresh flowers in your home, workspace, or creative space, the mental health benefits are undeniable.

Another benefit of this practice is that it intentionally forces you to spend time outdoors, at a time of year when the rainy spring weather may tempt you to stay cozied up inside. But anyone who has ever gone outdoors after a fresh spring rain shower will tell you there is a certain smell in the air during this time of year that cannot be replicated in summer, fall or winter. Scientists have actually named this phenomenon- “Petrichor” is the term for the unique, earthy smell associated with rain. It is caused by the water from the rain combining with certain compounds like ozone, geosmin, and plant oils in soil.

Even more impressive is the fact that soil contains a natural antidepressant; a microbe in the soil called Mycobacterium vaccae that is confirmed to stimulate serotonin production, leaving you feeling relaxed and happier. When you garden and work the soil, you actually inhale these beneficial bacteria in addition to having topical contact with it, making multiple points of entry for this natural stress reliever to enter your bloodstream. I see this as further proof of what I know intuitively as a gardener; spending time in nature in spring is a uniquely healing experience.

Asian Jumping Worms: What We Know

Last fall, I was digging in one of my garden beds to plant garlic when I came across the largest worm I had ever seen. Quickly, my heart jumped into my throat - I had heard about these extra large, extra wriggly worms and knew that they were not a good sign for my garden. This turned into a full on panic as I dug up various spots throughout the yard and found they were spread out across the entire acre of land. An infestation of jumping worms that I knew meant trouble for my soil health and ability to grow thriving vegetable plants in ground.

To my horror, as I began frantically googling, it slowly dawned on me that there is surprisingly little known about these worms and how to effectively eradicate them. Cutting them in half just causes one worm to duplicate into two, burning them seems cruel, and when I tried to drown them in a bucket of water, they somehow managed to quickly climb out…and that my friends is how I ended up with a gallon size baggie of worms frozen in my freezer. Freezing them felt like the most ethical way to deal with them, as they basically just go into a deep sleep and never wake up, but still - I was left nauseous and horrified.

What are jumping worms?

Jumping worms, scientifically known as Amynthas spp., are a group of invasive earthworms native to East Asia. They are also commonly referred to as crazy worms, snake worms, or Alabama jumpers. These worms are distinguished by their unique behavior of thrashing and writhing vigorously when handled or disturbed, which gives them the appearance of "jumping." Unlike traditional earthworms, which burrow deep into the soil, jumping worms typically reside in the upper organic layer, where they feed on decaying organic matter, leaf litter, and root systems.

One of the most alarming characteristics of jumping worms is their ability to quickly degrade the soil structure and organic matter. They consume large quantities of organic material and leave behind castings that, unlike earthworm castings, are devoid of nutrients, altering the composition and texture of the soil in negative ways. This rapid decomposition can lead to significant changes in soil fertility, moisture retention, and nutrient availability, detrimentally affecting plant growth and ecosystem dynamics.

Jumping worms are highly adaptable and can thrive in various environments, including forests, gardens, and agricultural fields. They reproduce rapidly and have been known to easily outcompete native earthworm species, disrupting soil ecosystems and native plant communities. Additionally, their presence can attract predators and disrupt food webs, further impacting the balance of local ecosystems. While they die back in areas with cold winters, their microscopic eggs survive the chill to hatch next spring.

Due to their invasive nature and destructive impact on soil health, jumping worms pose a significant threat to natural ecosystems and agricultural systems alike. Efforts to control and manage their spread are essential to mitigate their negative effects and protect biodiversity.

How do you identify jumping worms?

Jumping worms are very large and often have a translucent, milky-white to grayish-brown coloration, with a slightly iridescent sheen. Jumping worms have a slim, cylindrical body with a smooth and uniform appearance. One of the most distinctive characteristics of jumping worms is their behavior when handled or disturbed. They exhibit a unique thrashing or writhing motion, resembling "jumping" or "dancing." When picked up or exposed to light, jumping worms may quickly retract and thrash around vigorously.

Jumping worm vs earthworm

But how can you tell jumping worms from beneficial garden earthworms? Unlike earthworms,The clitellum on a jumping worm is milky white to gray-colored, smooth and completely encircles the body of the worm. In contrast, the clitellum of European earthworms does not wrap entirely around the worm. Jumping worms are generally larger in size compared to traditional earthworm species, typically ranging from eight to twelve inches in length.

How did jumping worms get to the USA?

Jumping worms are native to East Asia, specifically regions such as Japan, Korea, China, and parts of Southeast Asia. Within their native range, they play a role in ecosystem processes and are part of the natural soil fauna. The introduction of jumping worms to new regions outside of their native range is attributed to human activities.

There are several common pathways through which jumping worms can be inadvertently transported. Jumping worms may be transported via potted plants, root balls, or soil associated with ornamental plants. They can hitch a ride in nursery stock or gardening supplies, allowing them to spread to new locations. The movement of mulch, compost, or soil amendments from infested areas can facilitate the spread of jumping worms. These materials may contain eggs, cocoons, or even adult worms, which can establish new populations when introduced to suitable habitats.

Landscaping projects, such as transplanting, grading, or soil disturbance, can inadvertently spread jumping worms to new areas. Construction projects, garden renovations, and land clearing activities may disturb soil ecosystems, allowing jumping worms to be dispersed. Outdoor recreational activities, such as hiking, camping, fishing, and gardening, can also inadvertently transport jumping worms from infested areas to new locations. Soil clinging to footwear, equipment, or vehicles can serve as a means of transport.

Once introduced to new regions, jumping worms can establish populations rapidly, aided by their prolific reproduction and ability to thrive in a variety of habitats. Their invasive nature and disruptive effects on soil ecosystems highlight the importance of preventing their spread and implementing measures to manage and control their populations in affected areas.

Where have jumping worms been found?

As an invasive species, jumping worms have been reported in numerous countries and regions, including:

• United States: Jumping worms have been documented in many states across the U.S., including but not limited to:

• Midwest: Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Ohio, Wisconsin

• Northeast: Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New York, Pennsylvania, Vermont

• Southeast: Alabama, Georgia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, Virginia

• West: California, Oregon, Washington

• Canada: Reports of jumping worms have emerged in several provinces, such as Ontario and Quebec.

• Europe: Jumping worms have been observed in countries like the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Belgium, and the Netherlands.

• Australia: There have been reports of jumping worms in various parts of Australia, although they are not as widespread as in some other regions.

• Asia: In addition to their native range in East Asia, jumping worms have also been reported in other parts of Asia due to human-mediated transport.

How to get rid of jumping worms

Managing and controlling jumping worms requires a multifaceted approach that aims to limit their spread, reduce their populations, and mitigate their impact on ecosystems. While complete eradication of jumping worms may be challenging, various strategies can help manage and control their populations. We need to raise awareness among the public, gardeners, and landscapers about the threat posed by jumping worms and the importance of preventing their spread.

To reduce the spread of jumping worms, we should minimize the transport of soil, mulch, compost, and plant materials from infested areas to uninfested sites, especially during landscaping, gardening, and restoration activities, and establish monitoring programs to track the distribution and abundance of jumping worms in affected areas. We can also implement practices that disrupt jumping worm populations such as solarizing soil, although these methods may also impact native soil organisms and soil structure.

How to kill jumping worms

Chemical control methods for jumping worms are currently limited, and there are no widely accepted chemical treatments specifically targeting jumping worms. Some studies have explored the potential use of certain soil amendments, such as lime or biochar, to modify soil conditions and suppress jumping worm populations, although more research is needed to evaluate their effectiveness and potential impacts.

It is not known if jumping worms have any potential natural enemies, predators, or parasites that could be used as biological control agents, and this approach requires careful consideration to avoid unintended consequences and ecological disruptions. It is not safe to feed jumping worms to chickens or use them as fish bait, because they retain heavy metals and toxins from the soil.

An integrated approach combining prevention, monitoring, cultural practices, and research is essential for managing and mitigating the impacts of jumping worms on ecosystems and agricultural systems. Effective management strategies will require ongoing collaboration, adaptive management, and interdisciplinary efforts to address this invasive species threat.

It may seem like managing jumping worms is a hopeless endeavor, but while some adaptation is required and additional measures are needed to control soil health and quality, there are many home gardeners learning through experience different ways to keep jumping worms from destroying their gardens. The reality is that soil health needs to be a priority through aggressive composting and mulching efforts, which are practices that every gardener should be employing for thriving plants regardless of whether or not they have jumping worms in their garden beds yet. This is still a relatively new issue that is actively being researched, so many new developments are possible in the coming years that could help to control invasive jumping worms in the United States.

How To Get Rid of Pests in Your Garden

Early this winter I walked into the greenhouse and found that most of the greens, especially the brassicas, had been chewed to bits. I know that this time of year there's kind of only three things that it could be - I had seen a couple of slugs in the greenhouse before and I figured that had to be it.

Beer trap for slugs

With slugs, the best first line of defense is beer traps, so I put some beer traps out, but they didn't end up catching anything. The way that you do the slug beer traps is you just get a shallow dish and you bury it so that it's level with the top of the soil. They're attracted to the yeasty smell of the beer and they're supposed to just fall in and drown. When this didn't work even though I knew I had a couple slugs in there, I started to wonder if it could actually be snails or earwigs.

Snails and earwigs are also attracted by the humid environment of a greenhouse, but they aren't going to fall for the beer trap, so there's a couple other things that you can do if you've got slugs snails or earwigs in your garden. These are the most common pests that you're going to find when you're gardening in the winter because they like cool damp areas - and I had to act quickly because slugs have teeth so they can do a lot of damage really fast!

Beer traps are super effective according to you guys - I haven't really experienced that for myself just because in this particular case it wasn't actually mostly slugs that I was dealing with. The next recommendation for dealing with slugs in your garden is usually salt. The problem with salt is that even though it usually works by dehydrating the slugs, it's kind of a cruel way to take them out and importantly to a lot of gardeners can do some serious damage to your plants and your soil.

Does copper work to stop slugs in the garden?

Copper is really effective against slugs because it actually has the ability to electrocute them and shock them when they touch it so they tend to avoid it. You can get copper tape or copper wire and put it around your plants, it’s just a little bit more costly and time consuming to get it set up.

What I'm going to recommend you do the most is companion planting, which I have to say was probably my biggest mistake in the greenhouse. There are certain plants that I could have put in that would have been okay even though the temperatures are going to drop in there, like chamomile and sage and oregano, that would have repelled these pests in the first place. However, because of how late in the season I discovered this problem I didn't have time to plant those things before the slugs would have taken over and decimated everything.

Because I had a limited amount of time before they destroyed everything and I really couldn't replant what they had already destroyed because of how late in the season it was, I decided to take dramatic action - this isn't something that I normally do, in fact I've never done it before, but I am using an insecticide in my garden.

Natural garden slug repellent

Sluggo is organic approved and it's made of iron phosphate which is something that's harmful to slugs and snails, but pretty much harmless to everything else. It's laced with some kind of bait that attracts the slugs and snails, and it actually works against earwigs too which is great because I'm pretty sure earwigs have been doing the majority of the damage on my plants. It comes in a pellet form that you sprinkle throughout the garden. This is not my first choice and if I could have companion planted instead I definitely would have started there, but in this case with the limited amount of time that I had I didn't really have a choice.

But the fun didn't end there, because as soon as I got this slug/snail/earwing situation under control, I came out to the greenhouse to another horrific discovery! (Can you tell I'm stressed out about this?)

Rodents in the greenhouse

I pulled back the row cover and I noticed that there was a lot of dirt on top of the plants like they had been buried by something, and there was this really weird oily wet fur smell coming from the area. I pulled that row cover back further and that's when I saw the tunnels. Now at this point I didn't know what kind of animal the tunnel was from, and I'm not going to pretend like I didn't know that it was possible for animals to get in here, or that they'd want to because of course they would! It's warm and full of food and this time of year all these little critters are just looking for somewhere to cozy up, so I totally get it and this is my fault for not thinking about the fact that they would start coming in here as early as they did in the season.

At first I thought it wasn't that big of a deal because there were no droppings, they weren't eating any of the plants or even really disturbing them, they had just made a tunnel and left for the day. I'm no stranger to having rodents in the house - we live in the country, and we've got fields and old barns all around us. We've dealt with mice before in the house and the thing that's worked the best for us inside has been peppermint oil. It's all natural, smells pretty good (although it can make your eyes water if you use enough of it) so my first line of defense in the greenhouse while I started making a more permanent plan was to spray with this peppermint oil spray.

I ended up saturating all the wood baseboards and the row covers and the wood chip path in the center, but I wanted to be careful not to get this on the plastic itself because it's an essential oil and it's highly concentrated it can actually melt the plastic, I thought “this has worked in the house, so it's totally going to work here and there's nothing else I need to do” well…it worked for one day, and then I came back out to more tunnels.

There still wasn't a lot of damage, there wasn't anything that indicated to me that it was super gross, it was areas where I could just avoid eating those plants until they had a chance to grow back and make new growth that hadn't been touched by animals, but the tunnels didn't stop and then after a couple more days I did start to notice droppings.

With those droppings I was able to make a positive ID of these rodents, even though I haven't had a chance to see them myself yet because at first I had only seen the tunnels, I was able to determine that it wasn't something small like a field mouse or a chipmunk, but I thought it might still be a mink or a vole. With the droppings I was able to confirm that unfortunately it was the most common rodent pest that we see in our gardens; rats.

The best way to get rid of rats is to prevent them from coming inside in the first place. but unfortunately a lot of the time our gardens are just havens for them. They love the rotting food in your compost, the warm nests they can make under the layers of cardboard that you're using to make new beds, all of these things are going to attract rats to your garden - especially if it's a warm cozy place like a greenhouse.

So why did I hesitate to just do hardware cloth in the first place and why didn't I just take care of this upfront so it didn't happen? Basically when I designed this greenhouse we used wooden boards along the long edges to hold the cattle panel in, but we didn't put any wooden boards along the back or the front wall because they weren't necessary, so there's no exterior frame for us to swoop a piece hardware cloth up against and keep it protected - and realistically they could just climb that hardware cloth and chew through the plastic so it just seemed like an unnecessary expense that wasn't going to provide me any additional benefit.

At the end of the day if they wanted to come in, they were going to come in, so I thought that the best low cost low effort way to prevent them was with peppermint oil. Peppermint oil is known to be super effective against all sorts of rodents but for some reason (and you guys have confirmed this for me in DMs) rats just don't seem to mind it as much as other rodent pests do, so even though I ended up spraying every available surface with peppermint oil to the point that my eyes were watering it didn't have the effect that I had hoped it would on the rats.

Another recommendation I got from you guys was to use lavender oil, Again this just comes back to using scents that we know that they don't like to repel them from coming in in the first place. Whether or not this is effective kind of depends on how determined the rat is.

For our last food-based recommendation you guys recommended I sprinkle chili powder around the outside of the hoop house - this is totally harmless, they just don't like the spiciness! I guess when they're digging through it, it gets up in their nose. I have had a lot of success using this method.

You can also try sprinkling around some cat fur or used cat litter, and the most interesting recommendation that I got from one of you was from a reptile owner who told me that they have found that snake skins are excellent at repelling rats, so if you had a source for some snake skin you could definitely try that as well. Another popular recommendation that I got was Irish Spring soap - I've heard mixed reviews about this one myself so let me know in the comments if you tried this and it's worked for you,

Desperate times call for desperate measures so we're going to get into my least favorite recommendations; traps and poisons.

You can get traps that unalive your rats or you can get traps that are catch and release. With either of these options of course you're dealing face to face with rats themselves and depending on how many rats are present this could be an ongoing issue that continues throughout the whole season.

I will strongly discourage you from using a chemical poison on your rat population, not only because it’s an unpleasant and inhumane death but also because if other wildlife like an owl gets that rat they're going to end up poisoned too.

If you are going to go down this route I would research natural methods. I won't go into them much here since it's not something that I generally advocate for, but some of the ones that you guys recommended to me were sweet potatoes, cornmeal, and baking soda.

Let me know if you've had any luck with the suggestions that we talked about here!

Garden Planning Part 4: What Is Companion Planting?

This is part four of my garden planning guide. For part one all about deciding what to plant, click here. For part two, all about planning your garden layout, click here. For part three, how to start seeds, click here

Companion planting is an age-old practice based on the principle of mutualism, where plants interact positively with each other, promoting growth, health, and pest control. Companion planting is a holistic approach to gardening that recognizes the interconnectedness of plants and their environment. By strategically pairing plants, you can create healthier, more resilient ecosystems that require less intervention and chemical inputs. It's a sustainable and environmentally friendly way to cultivate food and ornamental gardens, rooted in the principles of cooperation and harmony within nature. The goal is to enhance the overall health and productivity of the garden by taking advantage of the interactions between certain plant species.

How companion planting can impact your garden

Companion Planting for Pest Control

Some plants release natural compounds that repel or deter pests, and planting them alongside susceptible crops can help protect them. Marigolds are renowned for their ability to repel a wide range of pests due to the strong scent emitted by their foliage and flowers. This scent acts as a natural deterrent for many common garden pests, including nematodes, aphids, whiteflies, and even certain types of beetles.

Planting marigolds alongside susceptible crops can create a protective barrier, reducing the likelihood of pest infestations without the need for chemical pesticides. Planting basil alongside tomatoes not only improves the flavor of the tomatoes but also deters tomato hornworms and whiteflies. Similarly, planting onions or chives near carrots can help repel carrot flies, while carrots attract beneficial insects like parasitic wasps and hoverflies, which prey on aphids and other pests. Calendula and yarrow attract predatory insects like ladybugs and parasitic wasps, which feed on harmful insects.

Companion Planting for Soil Health

Companion planting plays a significant role in improving and maintaining soil quality. Some plants possess deep and penetrating root systems that can effectively break up compacted soil, allowing for better air and water penetration. Plants like daikon radishes, with their long taproots, are excellent at aerating the soil. These deep-rooted plants help loosen compacted soil layers, creating channels for air, water, and nutrients to reach deeper soil layers, which is beneficial for the overall health and growth of neighboring plants.

Leguminous plants, such as beans, peas, clover, and alfalfa, have a unique ability to form symbiotic relationships with nitrogen-fixing bacteria in their root nodules. These bacteria take atmospheric nitrogen and convert it into a form (ammonia) that plants can utilize for growth. This process, known as nitrogen fixation, helps enrich the soil with this essential nutrient, benefiting not only the legumes themselves but also neighboring plants. By interplanting nitrogen-fixing legumes with other crops, you can reduce the need for synthetic fertilizers and promote healthier soil fertility.

Certain plants have the remarkable ability to absorb and accumulate toxins, heavy metals, and pollutants from the soil through their roots—a process known as phytoremediation. Sunflowers, for example, are well-known for their ability to absorb contaminants such as lead, arsenic, and radioactive isotopes from the soil, effectively detoxifying it. Once absorbed, these contaminants are stored in the plant's tissues or concentrated in specific structures, making it easier to remediate the soil by removing the contaminated plant material. By incorporating phytoremediative plants into companion planting schemes, you can help rehabilitate polluted or contaminated soil, making it safer and healthier for other plants to grow.

In addition to sunflowers, several other plants are considered "dynamic accumulators" because they accumulate specific nutrients or minerals in their tissues, which can then be recycled back into the soil when the plant decomposes. For instance, comfrey is known for its deep roots and high concentrations of nutrients like potassium, calcium, and phosphorus. When comfrey leaves decompose, they release these nutrients back into the soil, enriching it for neighboring plants. Incorporating dynamic accumulators into companion planting designs can help improve soil fertility and structure over time, creating a more resilient and productive garden ecosystem.

Companion Planting to Maximize Growing Space

One of the primary ways companion planting maximizes space is by utilizing vertical space efficiently. Tall plants, such as corn, sunflowers, or pole beans, can serve as natural trellises or support structures for vining plants like cucumbers, squash, or tomatoes. By allowing these vining plants to climb upward, you can take advantage of vertical space that might otherwise remain unused, effectively doubling or even tripling the yield from a given area of land.

Another approach to space optimization involves creating layered planting arrangements akin to natural ecosystems. Tall plants with a dense canopy, such as corn or sunflowers, can provide shade and shelter for lower-growing plants like lettuce, spinach, or herbs. This canopy-and-understory configuration not only makes efficient use of space but also helps conserve soil moisture by reducing evaporation and minimizing weed growth. Additionally, the cooler microclimate created by the shade of taller plants can be beneficial for cool-season crops in warmer climates or during hot summer months.

Companion Planting as a Succession Strategy

Companion planting also enables you to implement succession planting strategies, where fast-maturing or short-season crops are interplanted with longer-maturing or perennial species. For example, lettuce or radishes can be planted between rows of slower-growing crops like tomatoes or peppers. By the time the larger plants reach maturity and require more space, the shorter crops will have been harvested, allowing for continuous production and efficient use of space throughout the growing season.

Pairing plants with compatible growth habits and complementary resource needs allows for denser planting arrangements without competition for resources. For instance, planting shallow-rooted crops like lettuce or herbs alongside deep-rooted crops like garlic or onions enables efficient use of soil nutrients and moisture without overcrowding or stunting growth. Similarly, interplanting nitrogen-fixing legumes like beans or peas with heavy feeders like corn or squash can provide natural fertilization and improve overall soil fertility while maximizing space utilization.

What is the Three Sisters Planting Method?

The "Three Sisters" technique, deeply rooted in Native American agricultural traditions, exemplifies the concept of companion planting based on complementary nutrient needs and symbiotic relationships among plant species. Corn serves as the backbone of the Three Sisters planting method, providing a tall, sturdy structure for the climbing beans to latch onto. As corn grows, it creates a natural trellis for the beans, allowing them to climb upward and access sunlight without the need for additional support structures. In return, the beans, with their twining vines, help stabilize the corn stalks against strong winds and storms.

Beans, such as pole beans or runner beans, are nitrogen-fixing legumes that have a symbiotic relationship with certain soil bacteria. These bacteria, known as rhizobia, form nodules on the beans' roots and convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that plants can use for growth. By interplanting beans with corn, the beans enrich the soil with nitrogen, a vital nutrient that corn requires for healthy growth and development. In essence, the beans act as natural fertilizers, reducing the need for synthetic nitrogen inputs and promoting soil fertility.

Squash plays a crucial role in the Three Sisters planting system by serving as living mulch. As the squash plants spread their large, dense leaves across the ground, they create a natural barrier that suppresses weed growth, shades the soil, and conserves moisture. This living mulch helps maintain soil moisture levels, reduces water evaporation, and minimizes weed competition, thus improving overall soil health and reducing the need for manual weed control.

The Three Sisters planting method offers synergistic benefits beyond nutrient sharing and weed suppression. The combination of corn, beans, and squash creates a balanced and self-sustaining ecosystem that mimics the diversity and resilience of natural ecosystems. For example, the dense foliage of the squash plants helps to deter pests and reduce pest pressure on the corn and beans, while the deep root systems of all three plants contribute to soil aeration and nutrient cycling. Beyond its practical benefits, the Three Sisters planting technique holds cultural and spiritual significance for many Native American communities. It reflects a deep understanding of the interconnectedness of all living beings and the importance of harmonious relationships with the land. The practice has been passed down through generations as a sacred tradition, embodying principles of reciprocity, sustainability, and reverence for the natural world.

Companion Planting to Increase Yields

Pairing plants that require cross-pollination can increase yields. Bees and other pollinators are attracted to a variety of flowering plants, so including a diverse array of flowers in your garden can ensure good pollination for crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers. Many plants rely on cross-pollination for successful fruit production. Cross-pollination occurs when pollen from the male reproductive organs (stamens) of one plant is transferred to the female reproductive organs (pistils) of another plant of the same species. This process introduces genetic diversity and promotes robust fruit set and development.

Incorporating a variety of flowering plants into the garden landscape serves as a natural strategy for attracting and supporting pollinators throughout the growing season. Plants such as lavender, borage, bee balm, sunflowers, and cosmos are known for their prolific blooms and attractiveness to bees and other pollinators. By interspersing these flowers among vegetable crops, you can create an inviting environment that encourages pollinator activity and enhances pollination efficiency.

Pairing crops that require cross-pollination with compatible flowering plants ensures that there are sufficient pollinators present when the crops are in bloom. For example, tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers all benefit from bee pollination. By planting these crops alongside companion plants that bloom concurrently and attract pollinators, you can increase the likelihood of successful pollination and maximize fruit set and yield.

Plants That Don’t Grow Well Together

Not all plant combinations result in positive interactions, and some plants may be incompatible due to competition for resources or allelopathic effects (where one plant releases chemicals that inhibit the growth of others).

Understanding the potential for both positive and negative interactions between plants is crucial when companion planting. While many plant combinations offer synergistic benefits, it's essential to recognize that not all pairings result in positive outcomes. Plants with high nutrient demands can compete with neighboring plants for soil nutrients. This competition can result in nutrient deficiencies for one or both plant species, hindering their growth and productivity.

Certain plants produce allelochemicals—compounds that inhibit the germination, growth, or development of other plants. These chemicals can be released into the soil through root exudates or leaf litter, creating an inhospitable environment for neighboring plants. For example, black walnut trees release juglone, a toxic compound that can inhibit the growth of many plants, including tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes. Planting susceptible crops near black walnut trees can lead to stunted growth, yellowing of leaves, and overall poor performance.

Some plants have aggressive growth habits or spread rapidly through rhizomes, runners, or seeds. When planted alongside less vigorous species, these invasive plants can overrun the garden, outcompeting and displacing other plants. Mint and bamboo are notorious for their invasive tendencies and should be grown in contained areas or avoided altogether in mixed plantings where they may dominate and crowd out other plants.

Certain plant combinations may attract common pests or serve as breeding grounds for disease vectors, increasing the risk of pest infestations and disease outbreaks for nearby plants. Planting susceptible crops in close proximity to each other can create ideal conditions for pests and diseases to spread rapidly. For instance, planting tomatoes next to potatoes can increase the likelihood of both crops being affected by potato blight.

To mitigate the risks of negative interactions between plants, it's essential to consider factors such as plant compatibility, growth habits, nutrient requirements, and susceptibility to pests and diseases when planning companion planting arrangements. Conducting research, observing plant behavior, and experimenting with different combinations can help you identify harmonious pairings and avoid potential conflicts in the garden. Successful companion planting often involves a combination of experimentation, observation, and adapting practices to the specific conditions of the garden.